Sense and Sensibility's Regency gown, in a blue-on-yellow cotton calico print ($1/yard, Wal-Mart).  This pattern made up quickly and the directions are straightforward (and the online assistance is valuable, too), but fitting this gave me fits!  Evidently I am much longer from shoulder to bust than average; the underbust seam originally hit me across the points of my breast -- so of course it didn't come close to closing in the back.  I had to add two inches to the bottom of each bodice piece, and widen the sleeves.  Luckily, they're all simple shapes and this was not difficult (and I had enough fabric to redo the bodice).  My changes are detailed on the S&S page http://www.ehow.com/how_5178367_fit-pattern-elongated-neckline.html  Once this was done, the underbust seam was exactly the right diameter for me without adding any width at all.  I also found the sleeve bands aren't wide enough to easily put in buttonholes for attaching the removable long sleeves; I ended up slipstitching the sleeves in and can remove them when I need to wear the gown in warmer weather.  The bonnet is an original design by a very talented friend of mine, Shenlei Winkler.



My first Civil War ballgown.  The bodice is from the Fashion Historian Simplicity 5724 ballgown; the box-pleated skirt is a copy of one in the Morris County Historical Society collection.  Made up in a bright salmon moire (deeply discounted on Philadelphia 's Fabric Row) with a ribbed cream bertha and cream grosgrain ribbon trim on the skirt.  The bodice pattern is very easy to work with, and the design of the sleeves -- a sleeve within a sleeve -- ensures a nice puffy shape.  I redesigned the back so that it closes with a row of small shell buttons, rather than lacing up the back.  As I am hair-challenged, I made a simple headpiece on a headband with silk leaves and berries matching those on the bertha.  This withstands waltzing well.  It is now in the collection of a friend of mine.





A Civil War one-piece daydress based on the Past Patterns Garibaldi shirt (709) and drawing on originals in the Morris County Historical Society collection.  The skirt is just three lengths of fabric cartridge-pleated onto the same waistband as the bodice.  I put a pocket into one of the seams.  This dress has a dogleg closing, meaning the buttons run down the center front, then the waistband continues to the side, where the skirt pieces overlap in an opening.  This is a soft cotton plaid flannel from the $1 bin at Wal-Mart, and took less than a week to complete.  (Why am I standing that way?  I don't know.)  Unfortunately, it turned out too big for me (so it's available for sale).